Rolex Submariner

The dive watch every other dive watch is answering

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In production since 1953 and the template the entire dive-watch category still follows. Rotating timing bezel, high-legibility dial, genuine water resistance — and, over seventy years, remarkably little change to the formula.

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Available Watches

History of the Submariner

1953

The original

Reference 6204 arrives rated to 100 metres, with the rotating bezel that let a diver track elapsed time. The layout it established has barely changed since.

1959

The shape settles

Reference 5512 introduces crown guards and the 40 mm case proportions that would define the model for the next fifty years.

1969

Date and cyclops

The Submariner Date line splits off, adding the magnified date window. The no-date remains in production alongside it — a rare case of Rolex keeping the purer option.

2008

Ceramic arrives

Reference 116610LN debuts the Cerachrom bezel insert, which does not fade or scratch the way aluminium did. The case gains the broader lugs collectors call the super case.

2012

The no-date follows

Reference 114060 brings ceramic to the no-date, running the caliber 3130 with no date complication at all — the cleanest dial in the modern lineup.

2020

41 mm and caliber 32xx

The case grows a millimetre to 41 mm with slimmer lugs, and the 124060 and 126610 adopt the 3230 and 3235 movements with roughly 70 hours of reserve.

Submariner References

The references we see most often, and what separates them. Highlighted rows are references we currently have in the case.

ReferenceProducedCaseBezelCaliberNotes
124060In stock2020–present41 mmCeramic3230Current no-date. Seventy-hour reserve, slimmer lugs than the outgoing super case. The purist's choice.
1140602012–202040 mmCeramic3130Ceramic no-date in the classic 40 mm case. Increasingly sought as the last of the 40 mm generation.
126610LN2020–present41 mmCeramic3235Current Submariner Date, black bezel. The one most people picture.
126610LV2020–present41 mmCeramic3235Green bezel with black dial — the Starbucks or Kermit II. Trades at a premium over the black.
116610LN2010–202040 mmCeramic3135Ten years of production makes it the most available ceramic Submariner Date, and a strong value entry.
14060M1999–201240 mmAluminium3130The last aluminium-bezel no-date. Two-line and four-line dial variants, with the four-line carrying a premium.

Sub-models

Before You Buy a Submariner

Date or no date is not a small choice

The no-date has a symmetrical dial and no cyclops, and a devoted following. The date is more practical and more liquid. They price differently and appeal to different buyers — decide before you shop.

Lug shape tells you the generation

The 2010–2020 references have noticeably broader lugs and crown guards. The 2020-on cases are slimmer. On the wrist the difference is obvious, and photographs flatten it — see it in person if you can.

Check the bezel action

The unidirectional bezel should have crisp 120-click positive engagement with no back-play. A gritty or loose bezel means wear or contamination and is a service item.

Aluminium bezels fade, and that can be good or bad

On pre-ceramic references, an evenly faded insert is desirable to collectors. Uneven fade, scratches or a replacement insert are not. This is a real value swing on older pieces.

Verify the bracelet matches the reference

Glidelock and Easylink clasp generations changed alongside the cases. A mismatched bracelet is a sign the watch has been apart, and it affects both value and comfort.

Every watch we sell is inspected in-house in Las Vegas before it is listed. If you want a second opinion on a piece you are considering elsewhere, call us — we will tell you straight.

Specifications

Case diameter41 mm (current), 40 mm (through 2020)
Case materialOystersteel, yellow gold, white gold, Rolesor
MovementCaliber 3230 (no-date), 3235 (date)
Power reserveApproximately 70 hours
Water resistance300 m
BezelUnidirectional, 60-minute graduated Cerachrom insert
CrystalSapphire, cyclops on date references
BraceletOyster with Glidelock extension

Figures describe the current production reference unless stated otherwise. Specifications vary by reference and year — see the reference table above. Source: rolex.com. Watch Bros Co. is an independent dealer and is not affiliated with Rolex SA.

Submariner Questions

No-date or date — which holds value better?+

Both hold value exceptionally well. The date sells faster because it appeals to more buyers; the no-date has a smaller but very committed audience. Neither is a mistake.

Is 41 mm noticeably bigger than 40 mm?+

On paper barely. On the wrist the slimmer lugs of the 41 mm actually make it wear closer to the older 40 mm than the numbers suggest. If the previous generation felt too broad, try the current one.

Where can I see a Submariner in person near Las Vegas?+

We are based in Las Vegas and serve Henderson and the wider valley by appointment, with nationwide shipping for everything in stock.

What should I budget?+

It moves with the market and depends heavily on reference, year and set completeness. Tell us what you are after and we will quote current, honest pricing.

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